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Archive for the ‘Trails’ Category

The trail is easy … just follow the old road … at least that’s what the trails book indicated.  Well, “easy” it was not.  The old road has fully returned to nature … small saplings, tangles of shirt shredding briars, piles of downed ice storm branches, trees and logs to be navigated around, stepped over or crawled under.  In two hours of bushwhacking we had covered only six tenths of a mile.  At this pace we feared there might not be sufficient time to continue to Sandstone Castles and return to the car before dark.

Fortunately, in just over another half mile, the trail opened up, we made much better time and … WOW, all our efforts were rewarded with our first successful visit to Sandstone Castles.

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The entire Richland Creek Wilderness area is awesome but I believe we may have found a place almost as spectacular as Twin Falls.  Plus, this can be appreciated whether the creeks are flowing or not.

Located high on Big Ridge at over 2000′ this bluff line is a nature photographer’s treasure trove. There are  cavernous rooms large enough to shelter a Boy Scout Troop of campers.  There are connecting passageways, naturally carved windows overlooking the Richland Valley, and numerous natural bridges, massive columns and hundreds of yards of etched bluff lines.

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Fortunately on the return hike to our car, we found a trail which took us unintentionally across private land.  On my next trip to Sandstone Castles, I plan to seek permission to use this alternate route.  If not, it may be back to briars, brambles, branches and a slow pace.  Regardless, this is one Ozark find, away from the crowds, worth visiting again.
       

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Okay, so this is not my hiking foursome.  The truth is I am so excited about leaving later this week for another adventure … hiking in one of America’s incredible national parks, I simply had to inject a bit of levity.  Two years ago we did hike in Sequoia and Yosemite National Parks and I took this photo of a  photo hanging in the park’s lodge.  It certainly gives one the sense of the size of these monsters.

During the past ten years we have hiked, camped and backpacked in Yellowstone, Smokey Mountains, Grand Canyon, Glacier, Rocky Mountain and this year we are heading for the majestic Grand Tetons. In addition to two or three days in the Tetons, we will spend one day sightseeing and hiking in Yellowstone. I am blessed to have been here before so my anticipation is only surpassed by the memories of this special place in Wyoming.

More actual current day pictures and tales to share when we return.

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Taos to Ocate

Clearly, there’s something alien,mystical, maybe even spiritual about New Mexico.  Patti and I love to spend a day or two in Santa Fe or Taos either before or after our annual Summer pilgrimage to Colorado.  Taos though has become the favorite stop. It’s smaller, more manageable for a short trip, has the history (Kit Carson was born here), the culture, the Art galleries, great restaurants, the Southwest Native American Pueblo architecture, cool dry air surrounded by mountains and is a pleasant place to stroll the shops on the shaded square.

The architectural design standards are so carefully controlled, even a McDonalds complies by having no sign on the building … merely a small entry sign.

Okay, now on to the Mystical, Alien, Spiritual … and on to Ocate …

The picture below shows one of a community of Earth Houses.  There are probably 30 of these, some very elaborate but all built to be energy efficient, sustainable and from recycled materials.  To me they have an alien but fascinating story.

Upon leaving Taos we took one of those “roads less travelled”, this one a rough, narrow, steep, curvy dirt road to Ocate.  The first sign we saw when the dirt road began shouted in large letters that truckers and those pulling trailers should reconsider this route. However, we continued and it was rough. But we were rewarded with a beautiful drive, almost no traffic and a “make a memory  moment” at Ocate … our waypoint heading Southwest.

There wasn’t much there … the picture below was across the street from a weathered old general store, operated by a weathered 82 year old man (most likely the owner).  On the wall behind the counter was a black and white photo of his wife of some 60 plus years … a strikingly beautiful girl … possibly in her early twenties when the photo was made.

This was and still is life at its simplest … a striking contrast with the wealth of Taos, a place of history none the less and an example of the treasures to be discovered in the lingering spirit of people and memories of days and trails gone by.

A waypoint on Highway 120 … while heading home.

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Frisco, Colorado

Frisco, Colorado has such beauty, such history, such eclectic intrigue.  From the simple craftmanship of hand hammered hinges to its mountain setting at the base of Mount Royal/Mount Victoria, once the home of small mining community destroyed by avalanche in the 1800’s.

This small recreation oriented town is nestled at 9100 feet just 75 miles from Denver and less than 30 minutes from Breckenridge and Vail.  It’s a perfect stepping off point for skiing in the Winter, hiking, biking and boating in the Spring, Summer and Fall. Plus, there is no better choice to experience magnificent sightseeing year round.  It is home to the Blue River, one of the finest trout streams in Colorado, a virtual hotspot for festivals, shopping, dining and quite frankly just a mighty pleasant place to spend time especially when it’s hot in your home.

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Skyscrapers of Stuttgart Arkansas

    

Stuttgart, Arkansas is a small farming town with a rich history.  It is not only the largest producer of rice in the world but is the home of some of the best duck hunting in America and the host city for the annual World Duck Calling Contest.

Last week, the Arkansas Parks,Travel and Tourism Commission held its monthly meeting in the new magnificent Grand Prairie Center.  This 63,000 sq. ft. building can seat up to 1250 in the Concert Theater and handle meetings, conventions and community activities with dining and breakout rooms capable of comfortably seating small to large groups in the hundreds.

On the fifty or so miles return trip to Little Rock, I took time to explore stopping first in another small town, England, dropping by the Mayor’s office and then in the spirit of Robert Frost, I took the road “less travelled by”.  The following pictures inadequately show the peaceful majesty of a bayou forest of towering Cypress Trees … what a special surprise.

  

Last but not least, on this 100 degree plus afternoon, I found a brief albeit pleasant respite from the scorching sun and treeless farms as I drove under the canopy of most likely 100 years old Pecan trees.  This brought back immediate flashback memories of my childhood when my dad took our family to Scott to buy fresh Arkansas Pecans.  The other photo is of the Civil War Campsite which was part of the Little Rock Campaign.

  

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1874 Courthouse

In Arkansas we are blessed to have more than fifty State Parks.  Some are in obvious places conveniently located in population centers like Pinnacle Mountain Park. Some are small, more remote and difficult to access such as the Louisiana Purchase State Park which I wrote about in an earlier blog. Some are destination parks Like Petit Jean State Park and Mount Magazine.  Some are History and Heritage, some are Recreational, some have camping, fishing, boating and others have cabins with beautiful vistas. Arkansas parks are well managed, maintained and diverse.  In this blog, I will feature Historic Washington State Park in Southwest Arkansas.

There have been many times I have passed the exit on Interstate 30 near Hope, Arkansas only to speed by at 70 MPH with the thought “I need to check this out someday”.  Well, Saturday one week ago I did just that.  I pulled off the Interstate and drove the beautiful 8 miles to Historic Arkansas.  Not only was the meandering two lane road refreshing but my entry into the museum village can be summed up with the first word I uttered out loud … “WOW!!” I was flabbergasted and immediately felt I had just stepped back into the 1840’s.

There are some 30 plus blocks of buildings, homes, offices and shops impeccably restored to original 19th Century grandeur including period furnishings, many original. The Visitor Center museum/ticket office is in the 1874 Hempstead County Courthouse.

Rather than making this entry longer, there are a few pictures I took that tell the story better than I can write … Historic Washington, Arkansas is a must visit for anyone wishing to know more about our pioneer days and certainly about Arkansas’ Civil War role.  Washington served as the Confederate State Capitol of Arkansas from 1861-1863.

Arkansas Constitution of the Confederacy.

1845 Royston Home with period actor as tour guide.  He told me he had 39 slaves and fought in the Mexican War.

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Ok … I must admit, this is a pretty pitiful Christmas Tree.  However, as one can readily see, where the decor fails, the spirit prevails.

In December of 2010, my buddies, Bryan, JC and I were backpacking and camping in the Richland Creek Wilderness area.  Just for fun, JC’s wife had given him some glow sticks.  Well, you guessed it … as darkness crept into the valley,these colorful chemically activated lights found a home on a nearby scraggly cedar tree. That was 2010.

Fast forward to December 2011.  The Ozark Santas returned only this time with more Christmas ostentation in our packs.  We camped at the same spot, brought more glow lights plus, ribbons, battery powered candles, aluminum foil for the star, candy canes for the animals and stylish seasonal Santa hats for the three amigos.

Clearly this was and is a very unique way to share the Christmas Spirit with friends.  The tree may be lacking but we plan to return next year with even more creative ways to give this” Charlie Brown Cedar” a moment to glisten before all the creatures of the forest.

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Whether global warming is a scientific fact or not, whether humans are the cause or not and whether we can do anything about it or not is the conumdrum of the times.  Regardless, patterns of weather on earth today do seem to be more dramatic and irrefutably more extreme. One phenomenom which may not be weather related but can impact the weather is a volcanic eruption. The most notable of recent history in the continental United States was the cataclysmic eruption of Mount Saint Helens in 1980. One can read the details, see the pictures and only begin to grasp a sliver of the enormity of this geologic event. I will attempt to share my personal feelings based on a climb to the rim with my friend Bryan in 2006.

Bryan and I were attending  a Little Rock Parks Department accreditation meeting and had gotten a permit to climb Mount Saint Helens.  Fortunately the day was grand and we were mentally prepared for this rugged, off trail, scramble gaining 4500 vertical feet in just a little less than 5 miles.

    

As we reached timber line the glow of morning painted a stunning backdrop silhouetting our first glimpse of  Mt St Helens and other mountains in the Cascades Range . The next couple of miles above timber was filled with razor sharp Volcanic rock from sand crystal size to car or house sized boulders. This section was more difficult on the return than on the ascent. The toughest part of the climb to the rim was the last three quarters of a mile.  Not only was it steep but  full of ankle deep volcanic ash in which each step forward resulted in almost one sliding step backward.

    

Finally we reached the rim.  I was speechless … breathless too … but was awestruck by the view of the enormous crater below us, the view of Spirit Lake and the majestic sight of snow capped  14,409 feet Mount Rainier.

I was struck by the incomprehensible power that literally obliterated the mountain top and evacuated one entire side of the slope.  The contrast with this surreal sight and the other still standing snow capped giants gave me an overwhelming insight into what that moment in 1980 must have been like.  And yet, here I was standing on this rim while Mount Saint Helens was and is being rebuilt at the rate of one dump truck load per second.  Even at that speed, it will take more than 100 years for the underground forces to refill the crater and for Mount Saint Helens to be what it was before 1980.

The hike down was easier but we were tired ,it was still dangerous and our brains were saturated with the sense of wonder  having seen in person the aftermath of nature’s power.  Be it  volcanoes, heat and cold, storms, floods or merely predicting the weather for a family outing, we inhabitants of the Earth, to some degree, are just along for the ride.

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Louis Zamperini in person

I am a big believer in “The Synchronicity of Life”… events, circumstances, random meetings of people one hasn’t seen in years, etc.  Such is the recent unexpected meeting of Louis Zamperini, the American WWII survivor whose story is beautifully told in Laura Hillenbrand’s book “Unbroken: A WWII story of Survival, Resilience and Redemption”.

I was attending the International Conference of Shopping Centers (ICSC) in Vegas.  A group called Chainlinks of which Flake & Kelley is a member was hosting speakers … speakers on the Economy, on the Retail Market, on ICSC.  The surprise came to me as  the featured speaker, a lively 95 years young man, Louis Zamperini, took the stage and held an audience of 400 spellbound with his unbelievable story.

If you have not read “Unbroken”, do it now.  If you’ve ever felt like the world weighs heavy on you, or you feel you can’t go on,  read this book and I promise you will stand up, dust yourself off and face any adversity that comes along with a renewed energy

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I have been blessed to travel a great deal during my life.  What I remember most about cities are vibrant downtowns.  Makes no difference,  be it small or big city,  American or foreign city  …  it’s  that beating heart, that sense of place, that something special  that downtowns deliver.  In general, when we talk about our impression of cities we are talking about the central core, the downtown … this is the reason a favorable downtown experience is  absolutely critical.

In my own city, Little Rock, when I was growing up, downtown was “the place” … then we lost it.  We tried to fix it but nothing worked , nothing until the early nineties, when we embarked on a two year long community visioning exercise involving hundreds of citizens.  This effort called “Future Little Rock”, in addition to many other goals, emphatically recommended a commitment to the revitalization of our downtown.  Out of this came the River Market, the farmer’s market pavilions,  the reuse of old warehouses for the Central Arkansas Library and the Museum of Discovery, the expansion of our Convention Center, a River Rail Trolley, shops, restaurants, parks improvements, bike trails, railroad bridges given to pedestrians, etc… etc… etc…  all total, since then, over Two Billion Dollars in Public and Private dollars in a relatively small area of our city.   Had we not had this commitment, we would not today have the Clinton Library, Heifer International and Acxiom office tower downtown. We would not have reached the tipping point where, once again, downtown is the place to be, the place to play, shop, be entertained, live, exercise, be culturally enriched and, of course, go to work.  All this because a few hundred of our two hundred thousand citizens decided “the time is now”.

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